
With so many incredible neighborhoods and sights to see, it can be overwhelming to narrow in on just one or two locations to unpack your bags and stay a while. If this is your first time in Paris, you’ll likely want to situate yourself close to all the action, or at least in walking distance. But if you’re like us, you also want to get away from the crowds and experience the city more authentically and like a local. If this sounds like you, you’re in the right place! I’ll be covering how I narrowed in on our two market street neighborhoods, as well as a 4-day bulleted itinerary of how we decided to divide and conquer our limited 4 days in Paris. Seeing all the main attractions of course! But still leaving some room for improvisation and our own magic along the way. Because the BEST way to spend a day in Paris is ultimately to just stroll the romantic streets and discover wherever your heart takes you!
MRS HARRIS GOES TO PARIS =)

As a wedding photographer and lover of fine art, Paris was always one of those top of mind places to visit. A large part also being I had studied the language for 6 years in grade school and learned all about the culture, the food, the famous monuments. I studied Van Gogh’s paint strokes and learned how to make crepes. We watched international House Hunters and movies like Les Misérables and Amelie (my favorite movie ever is Moulin Rouge). Although I could hardly remember how to speak anything other than “Oui!” and “Bonjour” and “Merci!” I was hopeful it would all come back to me while there (and like clockwork, it did)! By day three, I was able to brave up the courage to order my breakfast, ask for the bill, and where the bathroom was – all in French (casually *brushes shoulder off* – it was one of the proudest moments of my life okayyy :’) Even Alex was thrilled for me.
We originally were supposed to do an extensive 10-day trip to Paris (and day trips to nearby French Christmas Markets) in December of 2023, but life threw us a curveball and we ended up taking up Alex’s grandparents property suddenly in November (getting a new home was not on our end-of-year bingo card!) We decided to cancel our trip to focus on the new home projects, with hopes to do a mini trip in Spring if the revised budget allowed.
It always turns out that January is a great time to score some good flight deals, so when I saw some on sale for $450ishh round trip I jumped on board & said “Alex – shall we Paris!?” We decided 4 days would be juuuust enough time to give us the chance to see what Paris was all about for a few early spring days, give us a mental vacation after moving & renovations, and revive our spark & inspiration before our upcoming wedding season would kick off later in April.
LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION

Rue Bachaumont / Montorgueil neighborhood
Having only four total days meant each day would be pretty packed full to make it worth the long flight. So a hotel with all the perks was not of much importance, but the location of the hotel and it being close to everything we’d be wanting to see was of top priority.
Having done some travel before and getting a feel for what we always tend to like and don’t like as travelers, I knew we’d want to avoid heavy tourist and commercial areas (like the Champs-Élysées) and really get a better feel for authentic Parisian life – without being TOO far out from the main sightseeing of course. Think cobblestone streets with fresh produce & flower shops, a “Patisserie” (pastry shop to snag a croissant), “Boulangerie” (bakery for the quintessential French baguette), and many “Brasseries” to choose from (which function as cafés by day, and dinner/spirits by night – and of course, those cutesy Parisian bistro chairs for people watching).
So I googled something like “Best market streets in Paris” and received a list of about 25 different authentic streets. From there – and this is probably way too much research for the average person, but having only four days and wanting my first experience in Paris to be **everything I had dreamed** – I plugged each street into Google Maps and virtually started walking around. It was a great way for me to get a sense of a neighborhood without ever having been there, and imagine what would feel most like our vibes. Something that serves all the market street staples, but is aesthetically beautiful and inviting and close to other attractions.

Because it was hard to choose just one, I settled on the two market streets (“Rue” = street) named below. They were located in two different “arrondissements” (or districts) which the city is divided into, numbered 1-20, and that make a spiral around the center of the city like an escargot (snail). Although our stay was brief, I thought it could be nice to get a feel for two different locales in Paris rather than just one. That way I can compare/contrast, and also not put all our eggs into one neighborhood’s basket. SPOILER, both locations were *phenomenal, chef’s kiss, exactly what I was looking for* and would easily revisit both again next time.

Rue Cler on the left, Montorgueil district on the right
7th Arrondissement – Eiffel Tower area
The Eiffel Tower is actually not the most convenient location to stay your entire trip. It is situated in the 7th arrondissement, which is west of many of the other popular attractions in the city. However it’s likely something you’re going to want easy access to for a memorable first day in Paris (picture walking the market streets and having a cute picnic afternoon) or last night in Paris (grabbing a bottle of champagne and watching it light up at night)! And something about being able to walk from your hotel to the Eiffel Tower Champs de Mars lawn and stumbling back makes it seem all the more romantic.
Tip: If you’re wanting to spend a day or two around the Eiffel Tower, I would personally recommend the 6th (Saint-Germain-des-Prés) or 7th (Rue Cler) areas. We knew we’d be spending majority of our time sightseeing, but wanted easy access to the Eiffel Tower on our first day, so we chose a small boutique hotel within quick walking distance in a cutesy market area of Rue Cler (being able to wake up, walk the cobblestone pedestrian street and and grab an authentic croissant sounded so charming).
1st-3rd – Central Sightseeing areas
If you plan on doing a lot of sightseeing and want something more centrally located to avoid metros and be able walk most places within 20 minutes any direction, staying somewhere in the 1st-3rd arrondissements is recommended.
If looking for a more neighborly feel (which would be my personal recommendation), consider Le Marais neighborhood in the 3rd/4th. We didn’t get to explore this one as much but have heard great things. Or Montorgueil neighborhood in the 2nd (where we were at Hotel Bachaumont). Although it’s busier than our first location of Rue Cler in the 7th, this area felt like a well kept secret from tourists and was filled with so many restaurant choices each evening buzzing with energy. I want to go back and try so many more! I seriously ate the best Italian of my life (but more specific itineraries & recommendations to come).
I promised myself I wouldn’t do as much rambling this time around and stick to the goods, so here is our final outlined Itinerary. I’ll include other recommendations of things that we had to scratch because we didn’t have the time – in case you have more 🙂
HOTEL ON RUE CLER | BRIEF WALKING TOUR OF SOME 1ST, 4TH, 6th, 7th ARRÂ
Note on above cafés: make advance reservations, as there is hardly ever an open seat. Luckily, we scored a front row at Les Deux Magot on our final day. Order the old fashioned hot chocolate. Just do it!
**MOST MEMORABLE STORY OF THE DAY**
I’m not sure why I always stack our Day 1 so heavy, especially coming off a red eye flight and inevitably having to go with no sleep for 25+ hours come dinner time, but I do! Of course, we decided this 25th hour, deliriously overtired by this point and hungry for dinner, would be the time we decided to put our brains to the test for our first Paris metro experience. Everything up until this point was going well, we were walking around hitting most of our spots on our list until it came time to get back home to the hotel.
We got a 10-punch card for the metro and got to our designated metro spot. The train was about to leave and as we approached the door, the closing sound was beeping rapidly and more rapidly. I was assuming we’d just pause for the next, but without hesitation, Alex leaped on just as the door of the metro closed, leaving me stunned and fully separated from my husband. He looked at me through the window, I mouthed an F bomb, and waved him goodbye as he and the other attendees witnessed the ordeal and were laughing at my profanity.
My first concern was Alex is on a metro, with no idea which stop to get off at because I am our navigator. I have the map/guide on my phone. ANDDD crap. Second MAJOR concern, now realizing he is the one with our anti-theft backpack carrying all my essentials like a wallet/cash/credit cards, my identification, and our personal travel WIFI. So, I now am left to my own devices in a foreign country, having no wallet or cash or ID, and no foreign cell service to keep the directions up and running on my phone.
I quickly text Alex “get off at fifth stop”.
Luckily it goes through despite no foreign internet access. He texts back “the train was going the wrong way, I just got off at the second stop”
NO!
Panic sets in more because now I have NOOO idea where he is, or if the metro I’m now getting on is even the right one. I get on the metro and look at the upcoming stops to confirm I’m going the right direction, which I am, and wonder why Alex thought he was going the wrong way. I decide not to get off at my second stop just in case his second stop is different. So I text him “Mine is going the right way, get back on and go the direction of Metro 8 – Les Halles”
Clearly my words are gibberish to him, as he responds with a few profanities and asks me what the name of the hotel is.
Panic is now at a full 100%. Because *I* need him to **reunite with me** so I can get back on our travel wifi and continue to get directions back.
“I don’t have pocket WiFi or a wallet. I can’t get a taxi or get directions.”
Alex: “Where are you? I’m walking. I found the Seine then I found the Eiffel tower and am just walking toward it”
In this moment I realized, my husband has no intentions of reuniting with me back in this metro maze. We are now on two separate journeys. I now have to fully fend for myself and get myself home using old school maps 101. And I can’t fully blame him, he didn’t do any research on any of this, doesn’t even know our hotel name, and I’m just always the navigator. However without the internet I’m going to have to really settle down my anxiety and focus. Unfortunately, this wasn’t a direct route, it involved a connecting route. So when I got off at stop 5, I was suddenly in this underground hub of 5:00 traffic, a complete maze, much bigger than the first metro station. I couldn’t understand where I needed to go next and really just needed some dang WIFI to double check my progress. So followed the signs for “SORTIE” which meant EXIT. Hoping maybe my phone would pick up some signal if I wasn’t underground.
As I finally exited the underground maze trap and saw the light of day again, I wish I could say I felt relief, but the connecting line led me to a neighborhood in the 11th, which was much further out and not easily walkable back to the hotel. I suddenly really envied Alex and his nice little leisurely stroll along the Seine he’d be doing near sunset in Paris. Crap, I need to figure this out before dusk. I am literally dressed like an Emily in Paris tourist, in a frilly top, with an expensive camera around my neck and nothing else. I wanted to laugh and also cry.
Luckily, there were two options for me: embarrassingly walking up to a crowd of french police asking if they could escort my lost ass back to the hotel. OR go inside the french McDonalds, which I assumed would have free WIFI, and get myself sorted out. I chose the latter option. Once connected to internet again, I made tons of screenshots of my directions, and decided to brave the underground maze of anxiety once more. Thank god I at least had a prepaid 10-card punch because who knows how many I’ll need to use to try to get back.
I followed the directions for what seemed to be the right way, and when I got to the platform I realized, “This is it: I’m either going on the right train and going home, or I’m about to get myself really lost.” Maybe it was my anxiety, but everyone around me seemed a little sketchier, it was getting close to dusk, and traffic was increasing because of getting out of work. There was a classic black bob-haired French looking lady about my age that was hurrying by, I felt so dumb but she was the only one I felt comfortable asking “Excuse-moi? Is this the direction of the Eiffel Tower?” as I pointed to my phone. I forgot they don’t call the Eiffel Tower that in French, they say “Le Tour Eiffel.” pronounced “ee-FELL.” So she didn’t really understand me at first, and almost kept walking (I only looked like the most typical American tourist ever). But I think she could sense the fear in my eyes and voice and stayed with me and tried to understand me, eventually she realized what I was asking and reassured me this was the direction and to get off at such and such stop. Which matched my phone directions. Whew. She even stood by me to make sure I’d be okay because not gonna lie, lots of French men were around at this time and have you ever seen the movie Taken? Because I did not want to be.
We got on the metro together and I got off at the right stop. Exited, and found myself in the most beautiful, most quintessential, Parisian market street of my dreams. It was my first time seeing Rue Cler alive, as the market wasn’t up and ready earlier in the day. I instantly went into photography mode, capturing the street, forgetting I should probably check on Alex now and tell him I’m okay. Although I’m still mad at him a little, he really ought to be here with me and see this!
“I got it figured out”
Alex was shortly behind, and I spotted him down the street. We laughed that in all this chaos, we both managed to make it back to the area within the hour, 50 minutes to be exact. Really only a 20 minute detour.
I asked, “I can’t believe you weren’t scared for me and freaking out.” (I am STILL shocked, by the way at his nonchalance!) But he was like oh why would I be freaking out, I knew you’d figure it out.
🙂
…Honestly that might have been the best compliment of my life.
Because I did figure it out. I successfully navigated my way around a Paris metro system alone, on my first day ever in Paris, without the mental security of the internet, cash, credit cards, or identification, and jetlagged on 25 hours of no sleep. Either the gods are looking out for me, or I am much more capable than I thought :’)
TIME FOR A DRINK.
ART MUSEUMS | 1ST & 5TH ARRÂ
We successfully entered the metro side-by-side this morning (read: my two arms wrapped fully around him like a koala), and got to the Louvre for our opening timeslot.

Me with my husband entering the Paris metro
We chose Café Carrousel which was somehow our first actual sit down café experience and first time eating Pain Au Chocolat – croissant with chocolate – a muuuust. We now get them weekly in our trips into town to our favorite pastry shop, although it’s never quite the same as one in Paris.
“Je voudrais un pain au chocolat, s’il vous plait” –> the only words you need to know (I would like a chocolate crossiant, please).
**MOST MEMORABLE STORY OF THE DAY**
Don’t really have an epic story for this day, it was just a nice smooth-sailing day. Much better than the evening prior. It was really fun racing to see the Mona Lisa and momentarily feeling like we had the Louvre to ourselves, experiencing our first Pain au Chocolat together, and seeing Emily in Paris locations in real life as well as some of my favorite paintings was surreal! We also got to experience our first “Paris in the rain” moment on our way walking to dinner, and had to pop out the umbrellas. Got to enjoy our first relaxing sit down meal and take in the dusk with some classic French dishes and dessert. A great touristy day 🙂
EIFFEL TOWER PHOTOS | 8TH, 5TH ARR | 2ND HOTEL — MONTORGUEIL DISTRICT
Sooo, because Alex still owed me a little from the metro stress, I decided to make this last morning near the Eiffel Tower a bright and early wake up call for photos at various Eiffel Tower spots 😉
If you want these places to yourself you can minimize crowds by getting there just after dawn. Even in the chilly mornings of early April, and right before the Olympics and all the construction, it still didn’t deter people from making their way to these spots bright and early too, although it certainly helped in keeping crowd size more manageable (with several at each and about 30 at Trocadero). I cannot even imagine these spots on a mid summer day. Below are some of the best photo locations for epic Eiffel tower views!
EIFFEL TOWER PHOTO SPOTS
My favorites were probably the first two, you can’t beat the clear view from Trocadero and we’ll have to revisit again sometime when the construction is gone as it took away from its beauty (I even had to edit out a huge crane across the Eiffel Tower haha) We also couldn’t have access to the beautiful steps for a foreground or the area below was all closed off. And I would like to revisit Avenue de Camoens at a different time of day to see it in some better lighting!
**MOST MEMORABLE STORY OF THE DAY**
Beating the crowds early morning to take a neighborly walk, turning the street and audibly gasping to the grand Eiffel Tower view that awaited. Up until this point we didn’t really get to admire the Eiffel Tower too much, so it was nice to see it from multiple perspectives and treat it like a scavenger hunt around that portion of the city. The Pont Alexander III bridge was also incredibly romantic and beautiful and may be my favorite spot in Paris. I wish we could have gone back at night! The Champs Elysees and Palais Garnier area felt a bit too touristy / ritzy for us but the Palais Garnier interior is not to be missed. For lunch & dinner we much preferred wandering the local foodie scenes back in the Montorgueil neighborhood and people watching. I also can’t believe how much we loved our mini perfume class haha! I would totally do it again only maybe make an official cologne/perfume together vs a little sample size. Something to always remember Paris by after we’re gone! 🙂
MONTMARTRE | DINNER CRUISE
We had tickets to spend the first half of the day at Versailles, but ultimately decided to scratch it entirely. Versailles felt like a place that deserved more time, and the logistics of getting there felt too overwhelming after an itinerary-stacked few days. We just wanted to spend our last day leisurely enjoying Paris, leaving room for improvisation and our own magic. I am SO glad we did, because it gave us much more time to enjoy Montmartre at our own pace, and ended up being our favorite day of the entire trip.
Montmartre itinerary:
* Enjoy the quiet streets as cafés open on Rue des Abbesses – claimed by many the most beautiful street in Paris
* 33 – Café Le Vrai – LOVED this spot just off the Abbesses metro station…it wasn’t busy at all early in the morning, and was a great vibe indoors on a chilly morning
* 14 – Wall of Love – aka “Le mur des je t’aime” which says “I love you” in 250 languages
* Vintage Photoboth: 53 Rue des Trois Freres, 75018 (sadly was being fixed when we were there)
* Metro Station Lamarck-Caulaincourt double staircase (photo from both top & bottom are iconic)
* Rue de l’Abreuvoir – another street voted most beautiful in Paris
* Starts at the famous La Maison Rose
* Continue past the café and wak towards the Statue of Dalida, where you will find a stunning view with parts of the Sacre-Coeur in the distance
* Place du Tertre for local artists painting on cobblestone square
* Sacre Coeur – we entered from the backside with a covered green arbor and picnic benches, which was much more discrete than the swarm of tourists on the front side and so beautiful. When I think of our most special spot in Paris, I think of this little Parc de la Turlure. After enjoying the back side, head to the front for a grand view of the basilica and Paris from above
* Place Saint Pierre (vintage carousel in front of Sacre Coeur)
* Moulin Rouge = favv fav movie ever since I was 12 no biggie
After a several *INCREDIBLE* hours in Montmartre, it was early afternoon. We had a few more hours to spare before our River Seine dinner cruise so we decided to make advance reservations for Les Deux Magots to finally get to see what the fuss was all about (it is worth the long wait in my opinion for the old fashioned hot chocolate alone!) Then headed back to Le Marais to explore a little more before heading to the port for our final dinner on the Seine!
Although it may seem cliche, I highly recommend a dinner cruise on your last night in Paris. It was a very romantic way to cap off our trip, and see Paris from a different POV, especially at night when it was all lit up! I couldn’t believe it would be our first time finally seeing it flicker at night. We were always not within eye’s reach, too tired or cold to walk to it, or were on the other side of town. But we also knew we would see it tonight – so I kind of wanted to leave a little surprise for our final night!
The meal was great, thankfully, since it did cost a bit. It was a full course meal and I loved literally everything. It also came with what seemed like bottomless red and white wine. The live music was a nice touch too and I’m happy we paid extra for the window seat (there are many companies, we decided on Bateux Parisiens and upgraded to the service “privelege” for the window seat.
When we finally got to see the Eiffel Tower light up and dance to the hour, it was everything and more. Like, I’m still getting chills. Call me a sap or romantic, but there is truly just something different in the air in Paris. And I loved seeing it in Alex’s eyes too 🙂
Our dinner wrapped juuuust before the Eiffel Tower would light up again. So we mad dashed off the boat and cut through bushes to get to a clear view of it haha. I did a few twirls and Alex hyped me up for the video clip (you can go back and hear him say, “Sparkle-Sparkle, Meg!!” 🙂 One of my favorite core memories. We were too cold and lazy and tired to walk to the Pont Alexander III bridge to continue the evening, so hitched a taxi back to the hotel. It was 11:11 and Alex made the same wish he always wishes. A beautiful ending to a beautiful, short lived, but SO inspiring and impactful and left us wanting more – trip. We will certainly be back!
Do you have a favorite street in Paris? Was there a must-do that we missed?! Let us know in the comments below!

With so many incredible neighborhoods and sights to see, it can be overwhelming to narrow in on just one or two locations to unpack your bags and stay a while. If this is your first time in Paris, you’ll likely want to situate yourself close to all the action, or at least in walking distance. But if you’re like us, you also want to get away from the crowds and experience the city more authentically and like a local. If this sounds like you, you’re in the right place! I’ll be covering how I narrowed in on our two market street neighborhoods, as well as a 4-day bulleted itinerary of how we decided to divide and conquer our limited 4 days in Paris. Seeing all the main attractions of course! But still leaving some room for improvisation and our own magic along the way. Because the BEST way to spend a day in Paris is ultimately to just stroll the romantic streets and discover wherever your heart takes you!
MRS HARRIS GOES TO PARIS =)

As a wedding photographer and lover of fine art, Paris was always one of those top of mind places to visit. A large part also being I had studied the language for 6 years in grade school and learned all about the culture, the food, the famous monuments. I studied Van Gogh’s paint strokes and learned how to make crepes. We watched international House Hunters and movies like Les Misérables and Amelie (my favorite movie ever is Moulin Rouge). Although I could hardly remember how to speak anything other than “Oui!” and “Bonjour” and “Merci!” I was hopeful it would all come back to me while there (and like clockwork, it did)! By day three, I was able to brave up the courage to order my breakfast, ask for the bill, and where the bathroom was – all in French (casually *brushes shoulder off* – it was one of the proudest moments of my life okayyy :’) Even Alex was thrilled for me.
We originally were supposed to do an extensive 10-day trip to Paris (and day trips to nearby French Christmas Markets) in December of 2023, but life threw us a curveball and we ended up taking up Alex’s grandparents property suddenly in November (getting a new home was not on our end-of-year bingo card!) We decided to cancel our trip to focus on the new home projects, with hopes to do a mini trip in Spring if the revised budget allowed.
It always turns out that January is a great time to score some good flight deals, so when I saw some on sale for $450ishh round trip I jumped on board & said “Alex – shall we Paris!?” We decided 4 days would be juuuust enough time to give us the chance to see what Paris was all about for a few early spring days, give us a mental vacation after moving & renovations, and revive our spark & inspiration before our upcoming wedding season would kick off later in April.
LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION

Rue Bachaumont / Montorgueil neighborhood
Having only four total days meant each day would be pretty packed full to make it worth the long flight. So a hotel with all the perks was not of much importance, but the location of the hotel and it being close to everything we’d be wanting to see was of top priority.
Having done some travel before and getting a feel for what we always tend to like and don’t like as travelers, I knew we’d want to avoid heavy tourist and commercial areas (like the Champs-Élysées) and really get a better feel for authentic Parisian life – without being TOO far out from the main sightseeing of course. Think cobblestone streets with fresh produce & flower shops, a “Patisserie” (pastry shop to snag a croissant), “Boulangerie” (bakery for the quintessential French baguette), and many “Brasseries” to choose from (which function as cafés by day, and dinner/spirits by night – and of course, those cutesy Parisian bistro chairs for people watching).
So I googled something like “Best market streets in Paris” and received a list of about 25 different authentic streets. From there – and this is probably way too much research for the average person, but having only four days and wanting my first experience in Paris to be **everything I had dreamed** – I plugged each street into Google Maps and virtually started walking around. It was a great way for me to get a sense of a neighborhood without ever having been there, and imagine what would feel most like our vibes. Something that serves all the market street staples, but is aesthetically beautiful and inviting and close to other attractions.

Because it was hard to choose just one, I settled on the two market streets (“Rue” = street) named below. They were located in two different “arrondissements” (or districts) which the city is divided into, numbered 1-20, and that make a spiral around the center of the city like an escargot (snail). Although our stay was brief, I thought it could be nice to get a feel for two different locales in Paris rather than just one. That way I can compare/contrast, and also not put all our eggs into one neighborhood’s basket. SPOILER, both locations were *phenomenal, chef’s kiss, exactly what I was looking for* and would easily revisit both again next time.

Rue Cler on the left, Montorgueil district on the right
7th Arrondissement – Eiffel Tower area
The Eiffel Tower is actually not the most convenient location to stay your entire trip. It is situated in the 7th arrondissement, which is west of many of the other popular attractions in the city. However it’s likely something you’re going to want easy access to for a memorable first day in Paris (picture walking the market streets and having a cute picnic afternoon) or last night in Paris (grabbing a bottle of champagne and watching it light up at night)! And something about being able to walk from your hotel to the Eiffel Tower Champs de Mars lawn and stumbling back makes it seem all the more romantic.
Tip: If you’re wanting to spend a day or two around the Eiffel Tower, I would personally recommend the 6th (Saint-Germain-des-Prés) or 7th (Rue Cler) areas. We knew we’d be spending majority of our time sightseeing, but wanted easy access to the Eiffel Tower on our first day, so we chose a small boutique hotel within quick walking distance in a cutesy market area of Rue Cler (being able to wake up, walk the cobblestone pedestrian street and and grab an authentic croissant sounded so charming).
1st-3rd – Central Sightseeing areas
If you plan on doing a lot of sightseeing and want something more centrally located to avoid metros and be able walk most places within 20 minutes any direction, staying somewhere in the 1st-3rd arrondissements is recommended.
If looking for a more neighborly feel (which would be my personal recommendation), consider Le Marais neighborhood in the 3rd/4th. We didn’t get to explore this one as much but have heard great things. Or Montorgueil neighborhood in the 2nd (where we were at Hotel Bachaumont). Although it’s busier than our first location of Rue Cler in the 7th, this area felt like a well kept secret from tourists and was filled with so many restaurant choices each evening buzzing with energy. I want to go back and try so many more! I seriously ate the best Italian of my life (but more specific itineraries & recommendations to come).
I promised myself I wouldn’t do as much rambling this time around and stick to the goods, so here is our final outlined Itinerary. I’ll include other recommendations of things that we had to scratch because we didn’t have the time – in case you have more 🙂
HOTEL ON RUE CLER | BRIEF WALKING TOUR OF SOME 1ST, 4TH, 6th, 7th ARRÂ
Note on above cafés: make advance reservations, as there is hardly ever an open seat. Luckily, we scored a front row at Les Deux Magot on our final day. Order the old fashioned hot chocolate. Just do it!
**MOST MEMORABLE STORY OF THE DAY**
I’m not sure why I always stack our Day 1 so heavy, especially coming off a red eye flight and inevitably having to go with no sleep for 25+ hours come dinner time, but I do! Of course, we decided this 25th hour, deliriously overtired by this point and hungry for dinner, would be the time we decided to put our brains to the test for our first Paris metro experience. Everything up until this point was going well, we were walking around hitting most of our spots on our list until it came time to get back home to the hotel.
We got a 10-punch card for the metro and got to our designated metro spot. The train was about to leave and as we approached the door, the closing sound was beeping rapidly and more rapidly. I was assuming we’d just pause for the next, but without hesitation, Alex leaped on just as the door of the metro closed, leaving me stunned and fully separated from my husband. He looked at me through the window, I mouthed an F bomb, and waved him goodbye as he and the other attendees witnessed the ordeal and were laughing at my profanity.
My first concern was Alex is on a metro, with no idea which stop to get off at because I am our navigator. I have the map/guide on my phone. ANDDD crap. Second MAJOR concern, now realizing he is the one with our anti-theft backpack carrying all my essentials like a wallet/cash/credit cards, my identification, and our personal travel WIFI. So, I now am left to my own devices in a foreign country, having no wallet or cash or ID, and no foreign cell service to keep the directions up and running on my phone.
I quickly text Alex “get off at fifth stop”.
Luckily it goes through despite no foreign internet access. He texts back “the train was going the wrong way, I just got off at the second stop”
NO!
Panic sets in more because now I have NOOO idea where he is, or if the metro I’m now getting on is even the right one. I get on the metro and look at the upcoming stops to confirm I’m going the right direction, which I am, and wonder why Alex thought he was going the wrong way. I decide not to get off at my second stop just in case his second stop is different. So I text him “Mine is going the right way, get back on and go the direction of Metro 8 – Les Halles”
Clearly my words are gibberish to him, as he responds with a few profanities and asks me what the name of the hotel is.
Panic is now at a full 100%. Because *I* need him to **reunite with me** so I can get back on our travel wifi and continue to get directions back.
“I don’t have pocket WiFi or a wallet. I can’t get a taxi or get directions.”
Alex: “Where are you? I’m walking. I found the Seine then I found the Eiffel tower and am just walking toward it”
In this moment I realized, my husband has no intentions of reuniting with me back in this metro maze. We are now on two separate journeys. I now have to fully fend for myself and get myself home using old school maps 101. And I can’t fully blame him, he didn’t do any research on any of this, doesn’t even know our hotel name, and I’m just always the navigator. However without the internet I’m going to have to really settle down my anxiety and focus. Unfortunately, this wasn’t a direct route, it involved a connecting route. So when I got off at stop 5, I was suddenly in this underground hub of 5:00 traffic, a complete maze, much bigger than the first metro station. I couldn’t understand where I needed to go next and really just needed some dang WIFI to double check my progress. So followed the signs for “SORTIE” which meant EXIT. Hoping maybe my phone would pick up some signal if I wasn’t underground.
As I finally exited the underground maze trap and saw the light of day again, I wish I could say I felt relief, but the connecting line led me to a neighborhood in the 11th, which was much further out and not easily walkable back to the hotel. I suddenly really envied Alex and his nice little leisurely stroll along the Seine he’d be doing near sunset in Paris. Crap, I need to figure this out before dusk. I am literally dressed like an Emily in Paris tourist, in a frilly top, with an expensive camera around my neck and nothing else. I wanted to laugh and also cry.
Luckily, there were two options for me: embarrassingly walking up to a crowd of french police asking if they could escort my lost ass back to the hotel. OR go inside the french McDonalds, which I assumed would have free WIFI, and get myself sorted out. I chose the latter option. Once connected to internet again, I made tons of screenshots of my directions, and decided to brave the underground maze of anxiety once more. Thank god I at least had a prepaid 10-card punch because who knows how many I’ll need to use to try to get back.
I followed the directions for what seemed to be the right way, and when I got to the platform I realized, “This is it: I’m either going on the right train and going home, or I’m about to get myself really lost.” Maybe it was my anxiety, but everyone around me seemed a little sketchier, it was getting close to dusk, and traffic was increasing because of getting out of work. There was a classic black bob-haired French looking lady about my age that was hurrying by, I felt so dumb but she was the only one I felt comfortable asking “Excuse-moi? Is this the direction of the Eiffel Tower?” as I pointed to my phone. I forgot they don’t call the Eiffel Tower that in French, they say “Le Tour Eiffel.” pronounced “ee-FELL.” So she didn’t really understand me at first, and almost kept walking (I only looked like the most typical American tourist ever). But I think she could sense the fear in my eyes and voice and stayed with me and tried to understand me, eventually she realized what I was asking and reassured me this was the direction and to get off at such and such stop. Which matched my phone directions. Whew. She even stood by me to make sure I’d be okay because not gonna lie, lots of French men were around at this time and have you ever seen the movie Taken? Because I did not want to be.
We got on the metro together and I got off at the right stop. Exited, and found myself in the most beautiful, most quintessential, Parisian market street of my dreams. It was my first time seeing Rue Cler alive, as the market wasn’t up and ready earlier in the day. I instantly went into photography mode, capturing the street, forgetting I should probably check on Alex now and tell him I’m okay. Although I’m still mad at him a little, he really ought to be here with me and see this!
“I got it figured out”
Alex was shortly behind, and I spotted him down the street. We laughed that in all this chaos, we both managed to make it back to the area within the hour, 50 minutes to be exact. Really only a 20 minute detour.
I asked, “I can’t believe you weren’t scared for me and freaking out.” (I am STILL shocked, by the way at his nonchalance!) But he was like oh why would I be freaking out, I knew you’d figure it out.
🙂
…Honestly that might have been the best compliment of my life.
Because I did figure it out. I successfully navigated my way around a Paris metro system alone, on my first day ever in Paris, without the mental security of the internet, cash, credit cards, or identification, and jetlagged on 25 hours of no sleep. Either the gods are looking out for me, or I am much more capable than I thought :’)
TIME FOR A DRINK.
ART MUSEUMS | 1ST & 5TH ARRÂ
We successfully entered the metro side-by-side this morning (read: my two arms wrapped fully around him like a koala), and got to the Louvre for our opening timeslot.

Me with my husband entering the Paris metro
We chose Café Carrousel which was somehow our first actual sit down café experience and first time eating Pain Au Chocolat – croissant with chocolate – a muuuust. We now get them weekly in our trips into town to our favorite pastry shop, although it’s never quite the same as one in Paris.
“Je voudrais un pain au chocolat, s’il vous plait” –> the only words you need to know (I would like a chocolate crossiant, please).
**MOST MEMORABLE STORY OF THE DAY**
Don’t really have an epic story for this day, it was just a nice smooth-sailing day. Much better than the evening prior. It was really fun racing to see the Mona Lisa and momentarily feeling like we had the Louvre to ourselves, experiencing our first Pain au Chocolat together, and seeing Emily in Paris locations in real life as well as some of my favorite paintings was surreal! We also got to experience our first “Paris in the rain” moment on our way walking to dinner, and had to pop out the umbrellas. Got to enjoy our first relaxing sit down meal and take in the dusk with some classic French dishes and dessert. A great touristy day 🙂
EIFFEL TOWER PHOTOS | 8TH, 5TH ARR | 2ND HOTEL — MONTORGUEIL DISTRICT
Sooo, because Alex still owed me a little from the metro stress, I decided to make this last morning near the Eiffel Tower a bright and early wake up call for photos at various Eiffel Tower spots 😉
If you want these places to yourself you can minimize crowds by getting there just after dawn. Even in the chilly mornings of early April, and right before the Olympics and all the construction, it still didn’t deter people from making their way to these spots bright and early too, although it certainly helped in keeping crowd size more manageable (with several at each and about 30 at Trocadero). I cannot even imagine these spots on a mid summer day. Below are some of the best photo locations for epic Eiffel tower views!
EIFFEL TOWER PHOTO SPOTS
My favorites were probably the first two, you can’t beat the clear view from Trocadero and we’ll have to revisit again sometime when the construction is gone as it took away from its beauty (I even had to edit out a huge crane across the Eiffel Tower haha) We also couldn’t have access to the beautiful steps for a foreground or the area below was all closed off. And I would like to revisit Avenue de Camoens at a different time of day to see it in some better lighting!
**MOST MEMORABLE STORY OF THE DAY**
Beating the crowds early morning to take a neighborly walk, turning the street and audibly gasping to the grand Eiffel Tower view that awaited. Up until this point we didn’t really get to admire the Eiffel Tower too much, so it was nice to see it from multiple perspectives and treat it like a scavenger hunt around that portion of the city. The Pont Alexander III bridge was also incredibly romantic and beautiful and may be my favorite spot in Paris. I wish we could have gone back at night! The Champs Elysees and Palais Garnier area felt a bit too touristy / ritzy for us but the Palais Garnier interior is not to be missed. For lunch & dinner we much preferred wandering the local foodie scenes back in the Montorgueil neighborhood and people watching. I also can’t believe how much we loved our mini perfume class haha! I would totally do it again only maybe make an official cologne/perfume together vs a little sample size. Something to always remember Paris by after we’re gone! 🙂
MONTMARTRE | DINNER CRUISE
We had tickets to spend the first half of the day at Versailles, but ultimately decided to scratch it entirely. Versailles felt like a place that deserved more time, and the logistics of getting there felt too overwhelming after an itinerary-stacked few days. We just wanted to spend our last day leisurely enjoying Paris, leaving room for improvisation and our own magic. I am SO glad we did, because it gave us much more time to enjoy Montmartre at our own pace, and ended up being our favorite day of the entire trip.
Montmartre itinerary:
* Enjoy the quiet streets as cafés open on Rue des Abbesses – claimed by many the most beautiful street in Paris
* 33 – Café Le Vrai – LOVED this spot just off the Abbesses metro station…it wasn’t busy at all early in the morning, and was a great vibe indoors on a chilly morning
* 14 – Wall of Love – aka “Le mur des je t’aime” which says “I love you” in 250 languages
* Vintage Photoboth: 53 Rue des Trois Freres, 75018 (sadly was being fixed when we were there)
* Metro Station Lamarck-Caulaincourt double staircase (photo from both top & bottom are iconic)
* Rue de l’Abreuvoir – another street voted most beautiful in Paris
* Starts at the famous La Maison Rose
* Continue past the café and wak towards the Statue of Dalida, where you will find a stunning view with parts of the Sacre-Coeur in the distance
* Place du Tertre for local artists painting on cobblestone square
* Sacre Coeur – we entered from the backside with a covered green arbor and picnic benches, which was much more discrete than the swarm of tourists on the front side and so beautiful. When I think of our most special spot in Paris, I think of this little Parc de la Turlure. After enjoying the back side, head to the front for a grand view of the basilica and Paris from above
* Place Saint Pierre (vintage carousel in front of Sacre Coeur)
* Moulin Rouge = favv fav movie ever since I was 12 no biggie
After a several *INCREDIBLE* hours in Montmartre, it was early afternoon. We had a few more hours to spare before our River Seine dinner cruise so we decided to make advance reservations for Les Deux Magots to finally get to see what the fuss was all about (it is worth the long wait in my opinion for the old fashioned hot chocolate alone!) Then headed back to Le Marais to explore a little more before heading to the port for our final dinner on the Seine!
Although it may seem cliche, I highly recommend a dinner cruise on your last night in Paris. It was a very romantic way to cap off our trip, and see Paris from a different POV, especially at night when it was all lit up! I couldn’t believe it would be our first time finally seeing it flicker at night. We were always not within eye’s reach, too tired or cold to walk to it, or were on the other side of town. But we also knew we would see it tonight – so I kind of wanted to leave a little surprise for our final night!
The meal was great, thankfully, since it did cost a bit. It was a full course meal and I loved literally everything. It also came with what seemed like bottomless red and white wine. The live music was a nice touch too and I’m happy we paid extra for the window seat (there are many companies, we decided on Bateux Parisiens and upgraded to the service “privelege” for the window seat.
When we finally got to see the Eiffel Tower light up and dance to the hour, it was everything and more. Like, I’m still getting chills. Call me a sap or romantic, but there is truly just something different in the air in Paris. And I loved seeing it in Alex’s eyes too 🙂
Our dinner wrapped juuuust before the Eiffel Tower would light up again. So we mad dashed off the boat and cut through bushes to get to a clear view of it haha. I did a few twirls and Alex hyped me up for the video clip (you can go back and hear him say, “Sparkle-Sparkle, Meg!!” 🙂 One of my favorite core memories. We were too cold and lazy and tired to walk to the Pont Alexander III bridge to continue the evening, so hitched a taxi back to the hotel. It was 11:11 and Alex made the same wish he always wishes. A beautiful ending to a beautiful, short lived, but SO inspiring and impactful and left us wanting more – trip. We will certainly be back!
Do you have a favorite street in Paris? Was there a must-do that we missed?! Let us know in the comments below!
4-Day Paris Travel Guide for First Timers: Plus Where to Stay for Best Market Streets
May 30, 2025
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